Chunri

Chunri, Bandhani or Bandhej, is a traditional tie-and-dye textile deeply rooted in the cultural history of South Asia. The word Bandhani comes from the Sanskrit word “Bandh”, meaning “to tie,” which perfectly describes the technique used to create its beautiful dotted patterns.

The roots of Chunri can be traced back to the region of the Indus Valley Civilization (2600–1900 BCE), which covered areas of present-day Pakistan, northwest India, and northeast Afghanistan. Archaeological excavations at Harappa and Mohenjo-daro show clear evidence of cotton cultivation, spinning, weaving, and dyeing techniques during this period.

Archaeologists have discovered dyed textile fragments and evidence of mordant dyeing (a method used to fix colour into fabric), dating to around 2000 BCE. This proves that advanced dyeing knowledge existed in the Indus Valley region. However, no surviving textile from that era clearly shows the exact dotted tie-dye pattern of Chunri, mainly because cotton fabric rarely survives for thousands of years.

While direct Chunri cloth from that time has not been found, the presence of sophisticated dyeing methods suggests that resist-dye techniques like Bandhani could have gradually evolved from these early practices.

The earliest visual evidence of dotted textile patterns resembling Bandhani appears in Indian art from the 6th–7th century CE, particularly in ancient mural paintings such as those found in the Ajanta caves. These artworks depict garments decorated with small dotted designs similar to tie-and-dye motifs. By the early medieval period, Bandhani had developed into a recognised textile art form across regions, including Rajasthan, Gujarat, and Sindh, and later spread to Cholistan.

Chunri took strong cultural roots in Rajasthan (India) and Sindh (Pakistan), and later spread to Cholistan, as these regions were historically connected through trade routes and shared river systems such as the Hakra River. Each region developed its own blend of colours, motifs, and tying techniques, reflecting local traditions and identity.

The process of Chunri-making begins with selecting a cloth, which is usually obtained from a larger piece of fabric. After the tying process, the fabric is dyed; the areas that have been tightly bound with thread resist the dye and remain white, whereas the untied portions absorb the colour. Once the dyed fabric is dried, the threads are carefully removed, and the areas that were left untied reveal a beautiful white patterned design, which is the distinctive visual characteristic of Chunri.

The entire process, from cutting the cloth and tying the threads to the dyeing stage, is carried out manually without the use of any machinery. The design patterns are locally known as:

چُنری ، چھلّا ، ٹوگ، دیراول، سہاگرا، ترنگری

Today, in Pakistan, Abbasnagar is the main hub of Chunri-making near Bahawalpur City in South Punjab and other villages like Lal Suhanara and Goth Shah Muhammad. Over time, innovations and refinements have enhanced the craft while preserving its traditional essence.

According to the folk tales, the traditional method of making Chunri involves placing small items such as chickpeas (chany), lentils (daal ke danay), or rice inside the cloth. The fabric is then wrapped over these grains and tightly tied with thread. Next, it is dyed. After removing the threads and grains, round raised patterns appear on the fabric, creating the distinctive dotted design of Chunri.

The bright colours of Chunri symbolise happiness and celebration. Red reflects marriage, love, and joy, making it a cherished choice for brides. Yellow represents spring, positivity, and new beginnings. Green expresses prosperity and growth, while blue carries the calm strength of the desert sky. Through these colours, Chunri becomes a language of feeling, woven into the cultural life of South Punjab.

Chunri stands as a vibrant symbol of identity, femininity, and celebration in South Punjab, especially in Bahawalpur. It remains an essential part of Weddings, Eid festivities, and Cultural gatherings, and is often given as a meaningful gift.

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By Amna Zeeshan.