Kani Shawls

Kani shawls are one of the most well-known handicrafts from Kashmir. In collaboration with our friends at Saltanat, we’re looking into a historical overview of the craft.

Image: Saltanat

Kani Shawls originate from the village of Kanihama. It lies some 20 kilometres from Srinagar. The name "Kani" refers to the small wooden sticks used in the weaving process, while "Hama" means village in Koshur.

The primary material used in the making of Kani shawls is pashmina wool, which is obtained from the Changthangi goat. The species is native to the high-altitude regions of Kashmir. In some cases, silk or other types of fine wool are used alongside pashmina to increase the strength and add a subtle sheen to the fabric.

Kani shawls are woven entirely by hand on traditional handlooms using eyeless wooden bobbins (kani’s). Unlike embroidered shawls, Kani shawls are created through a weft-based tapestry weave, where the design is built directly into the fabric during the weaving process. 

There are several types of Kani shawls, classified by both weaving styles and designs.

1. Palladaar shawls include the Kani weave only along the borders.

2. The Chand-daar is recognised for having a central medallion, which often hints at lunar imagery, and four corner motifs.

3. Dorukha shawls can be worn either way up. They feature the same design on both sides. Artisans trim the threads and outline motifs on the reverse.

4. Jamawar Kani shawls are the finest of shawls, with patterns running from one corner to the other, often taking the longest time to complete.. 

5. Hyderabadi Kani shawls rose in popularity from the 1880s to the 1920s. They were marked by shaded motifs, European florals, and Kalamkari traditions of the Deccan.

Each shawl is woven according to a coded pattern known as Talim, which is first prepared by a Talimguru. The guru is the artisan behind converting patterns into code, which the weavers can understand and follow. 

The weaving of a Kani shawl typically involves the use of 75 to 100 wooden bobbins at any given time. Due to the complexity of the patterns, a skilled artisan is often able to weave only about one inch of fabric per day. Depending on the intricacy of the design, it may take an artisan anywhere between a few weeks to two years to complete a Kani shawl.

The tradition of Kani weaving flourished during the reign of Budshah Zain-ul-Abideen, the 8th Sultan of Kashmir. Historical records indicate that during his reign between 1420 and 1470 over 15,000 looms were in operation across the region during his time. 

The craft later continued to thrive under the patronage of the Mughal Empire. Unfortunately, its decline began with the introduction of Kani Shawls to Europe. The industry reached its peak between 1850 and 1866, the early days of the Raj, and rapidly declined after 1870.

Multiple factors contributed to this downturn: heavy taxation (25%), the disruption of European trade caused by the Franco-Prussian War (1870–71), and the overwhelming demand to keep up with Parisian fashion trends. 

A devastating famine in Kashmir followed in the late 1870s, as a result of which many weavers starved and perished. The politics of the Crown simply did not have room to patron crafts such as Kani. As a result, by the 1930s, the tradition of Kani weaving had almost disappeared entirely.

The revival of the Kani shawl tradition was largely made possible by the Wani family of Kanihama, who continued practising the craft even during its decline. Over time, patronage from Indian princely states such as Awadh, Hyderabad, Rampur, Rajputana, and Bengal supported the resurgence of interest in these shawls.