Natural Dyes in Pakistani Fabrics

For centuries, the land now known as Pakistan has been at the heart of the Old Silk Road. It has always been at the cusp of trade, art, and cultural exchange between Hind (India) and Faras (Persia). One of the arts which developed over time was that of natural dyes. From the valleys of Kashmir to the delta of Sindh, artisans relied on plants, minerals, and insects to create colors that were as enduring as they were vibrant.

Madder:

Native to many parts of South Asia, including Kashmir, madder red was not only used in local textiles but also especially valued in the Byzantine and Ottoman empires for its durability and brilliance in dyeing.⁠

Indigo:

Indigofera was cultivated extensively across the Indus Valley, Sindh, and Punjab for centuries. The leaves are fermented and processed to yield the deep, rich blue pigment prized in textiles, from block-prints of Sindh to Kani Shawls in Kashmir.

Turmeric:

Widely cultivated in South Asia and Iran, turmeric served a dual purpose – as a culinary staple and a dye. Its warm yellow tones were often used in everyday garments. In fabrics intended for royalty or nobility, the art of Zardozi embroidery often enhanced its brilliance. ⁠

Saffron:

Derived from the stigma of the crocus flower, saffron is native to Kashmir and has long been prized not only as a spice but also as a natural dye. It yields a vivid yellow and was historically exported across the world from Iran and Kashmir.

Lapis Lazuli:

One of the rarest dyes in the world, the gemstone is mined in Iran, Central Asia, and Pakistan. It was ground into powder to create the pigment used in illuminated manuscripts and textiles, lending brilliant teal and blue hues to fabrics.

Kermes Red:

A prized shade of crimson which comes from crushing the dried bodies of female scale insects. Despite being pests in many agricultural regions, these insects were essential to textile dyeing across Persia and Central Asia.⁠

Lac Pink:

A vivid pink, Lac dye is derived from the resinous secretions of the lac insect found in parts of India and Pakistan, particularly in the forests of Sindh and Punjab. Once extracted and processed, the dye produced a range of pink to crimson shades for fabrics.