The Indo-Persian Origins of the Paisley

The Paisley motif, originally known as Boteh, Ambi, Koyari, or Kalka in the Indo-Persian world, drew inspiration from the Cypress tree leaf blowing in the wind and the shape of a baby unripe mango.

The Cypress tree, in Zoroastrian tradition, is symbolic of life. The Mango is known as the King of Fruits in South Asia, and shares similar connotations of abundance.

This teardrop-shaped design appeared in diverse forms, such as carpets from Samarkand and Lahore, Afghan architecture, Kashmiri and Iranian shawls, and Cheent block prints.

When Kashmiri Pashmina shawls gained popularity among European aristocracy in the 17th century, particularly in France and Britain, local weavers, notably in Paisley, Scotland, began creating imitations. 

The original Boteh evolved into a more stylized and abstract form with elongated curves and intricate floral compositions filling the hollow. As the design became commercialized and mass-produced, its cultural symbolism was lost, and it became primarily associated with Western fashion.